Pampano: The Best Restaurant in New York?

Pampano New York
209 East 49th Street, Between 2nd and 3rd Avenues
New York, NY 10017
Tel. 212.751.4545

Until moving to New York in the mid-80's, my experience with Mexican food was limited largely to chains, like Chi Chi's. The food centered on taco's, enchilada's and refried beans. It was not haute cuisine.

That changed with my introduction to Rosa's on West 50th street in Manhattan. It was a small family run restaurant serving upscale Mexican dishes. Later I would enjoy Rosa Mexicano (similar name, but no relation), which began on the Upper East Side and now boasts nine restaurants in numerous cities. These restaurants served sophisticated seafood, poultry and meat dishes prepared with enticing spices.

Pampano expands on the traditions carved out by Rosa's and Rosa Mexicano and takes them to new level. Accordng to its website, it was born out of a partnership betwwen chef Richard Sandoval and maestro Placido Domingo. http://www.modernmexican.com/pampano/index.htm

My first visit to Pampano was a couple of years ago for a Bar Mitzvah of all things. That's right, instead pigs in a blanket and rubber chicken, I was treated to Margaritas, ceviche and pistachio-chile anhco crusted tuna. It was a wonderful alternative to a traditional affair.

We returned last night with two of my wife's cousins and their husbands, including the parents of the Bar Mitzvah boy. We had a great meal. For me it began with a simple Margarita, on the rocks no salt. Unlike Margaritas at the popular chains it was smooth and not too sour.

We then ordered a number of appetizers for the table, including a ceviche (citrus marinated seafood) tasting of shrimp, tuna and halibut, red snapper quesadillas and guacamole and chips. If there is a heaven, they must serve something similar. For a main course, I had the special, tuna in a coffee and chile rub. It was served with smashed plantains, spinach and a tomato salsa and was the best I've ever had. Others had the chipolte-misto marinated black cod and the Mariscada (shrimp, calamari, scallops and octopus marinated in anchiote-cocunut sauce). All were met with raves.

This was the best meal I've had in some time. Not surprising, as Pamapno is the Zagat's number one rated Mexican restaurant in New York. It just may be the best restaurant period.

Harold's New York Deli Restaurant - - Oy Vey!

Big food can be good. Good food is always good. Big food that is good is a rare treat.

On Sunday morning I experienced a rare treat. I woke up craving some Jewish soul food. You know, lox, bagel and a shmear. This is easier said then done in the Princeton, New Jersey area. Our last true Jewish Deli closed down years ago. Now, decent white fish or kippered (baked) salmon usually requires a schlepp into Philly or Manhattan.

My wife, knowing how irritable I get when my feeding schedule is delayed, suggested Harold's New York Deli in Edison, New Jersey, a sizable yet doable forty-five minutes up the turnpike. Having now experienced this nirvana, it is hard to believe that Harold's escaped my attention for so long.

Harold's is owned by the former operator of the Carnegie Deli in New York. If possible, the food is even bigger here. Pictured above is is the baked salmon bagel sandwich. Do not attempt this at home or alone. Bagel Sandwiches are to be shared (three bagels are served) and average about $25 in price. Smoked fish platters with six bagels range from $39-41.

For obvious reasons, my wife and I were unable to sample the deli sandwiches. We did, however, marvel at the waiters, who like ants, are able to lug trays several times their own weight. The corned beef, pastrami and other deli meat sandwiches come in large (approximately $16), extra large (approximately $32) and triple decker (an Obama bailout required). We also witnessed a twelve year old boy eat a stack of pancakes ($18) served on a pizza tray. As we left, he was being interviewed by the Guinness World Record folks and two doctors from the Mayo Clinic.

Harold's also boasts the the "World's Largest Pickle Bar." I tried the half sour pickles and the health salad. Without question, they were the best I ever had.

Even the napkins at Harold's are a treat, defining many popular Yiddish words such "schtickluch" meaning "habit," as in "eating at Harold's will become a schtickluch."

Downsizing: The Incredible Shrinking Ice Cream Package

Have you purchased a half gallon of ice cream lately? If you answered yes, you are either lying or very lucky. The half gallon package of ice cream is all but extinct.

First the industry reduced the standard half gallon package to 1.75 quarts and now the standard is 1.5 quarts. For those expecting a commensurate reduction in price, you will be surprised to learn that there was none. Industry executives plead that reducing the size of the package was a more palatable alternative to raising prices or using lesser quality ingredients. For a mea culpa offered by an ice cream industry executive. See http://icecreamjournal.turkeyhill.com/index.php/2008/08/15/shrinking-ice-cream-package/.

The half gallon package is not alone. Haagen Dazs, for example, has reduced the size of its pint to 14 ounces from 16 ounces and yet continues to label its package a "pint." As you might imagine, other ice cream companies are not happy about this development. Ben & Jerry's responded to Haagen Dazs' repackaging with the following statement:

One of our competitors (think funny-sounding European name) recently announced they will be downsizing their pints from 16 to 14 ounces to cover increased ingredient and manufacturing costs and help improve their bottom line. We understand that in today's hard economic times businesses are feeling the pinch. We also understand that many of you are also feeling the same, and think now more than ever you deserve your full pint of ice cream.

To the extent that you share Ben & Jerry's sentiments, and continue to want to purchase a full half gallon of ice cream, I can suggest a visit to Whole Foods Market. When I last purchased ice cream at Whole Foods, they were offering a half gallon of their store brand ice cream for $4.99--a fair price for a good wholesome product.

Eat up,
The Regular Guy

Conte's: An Oasis In A Food Desert

339 Witherspoon St
Princeton, NJ 08542
(609) 921-8041

Those of you familiar with Princeton will not be surprised by my saying that the area is not a hotbed of culinary delights. In fact, my wife and I came close to not moving to the area eighteen years ago due to the dearth of decent eating establishments. I remember being served pizza at one now-defunct Italian restaurant that reminded me of the version served in high school cafeterias - - you know, white bread slathered with ketchup and a slice of velveeta.

While there has been considerable improvement over the years, the area remains food challenged. Conte's is a notable exception. It has consistently turned out the best pizza in the area for a generation now.

The decor is early VFW hall. The restaurant/bar is housed in a large rectangular room with no frills. Metal tables and chairs serve as the sole decoration.

The bar is long and continues down the entire left side. Two televisions hang behind the bar. These are not of the HD variety; they are vintage console sets that go well with the bottled Rolling Rocks that are the bar's staple. Micro brews have yet to find a comfortable home here. The bar, however, serves a noble service since there is usually a wait for a table. One of my fonder memories, is sitting at the bar with the kids and watching them slurp down Shirley Temples.

While waiting for a table, a server will approach to take your order. If there are menus, I have yet to see one. The pizza is thin, almost wafer like. It is cooked until well-done, the cheese bubbling and golden brown and the crust crisp and dark. All of the standard toppings are available and are fresh and generally superb. Those seeking pineapple or thai chicken toppings will be treated as if they ordered corned beef on white bread with mayonnaise at a Jewish Deli.

This is not the California Pizza Kitchen. It is real food for real, if somewhat stiff and preppy, people.

Eat up,
The Regular Guy.

Peter Luger's: "Steak For Seven"

Peter Luger Steak House

• 178 Broadway, Brooklyn, NY 11211
  
• 718-387-7400

When one thinks of food for the regular guy, meat and potatoes is at the top of the list and when one thinks of meat and potatoes, Peter Luger Steak House is tops. Even though I had lived in New York for four years (86-90) and have maintained an office there throughout my legal career (86-present), I had never been to Peter Luger's. So it was with a fair sense of excitement that I and six fraternity brothers descended on Brooklyn on a cold and windy February night to celebrate a mini-reunion.

The first thing you notice about Peter Luger's is the atmosphere: there is none. If you like your food served with a minimum of BS, this is your place. Wood tables, wood floors and bright lights.

Next, you notice the food choices. There are few. We were offered steak for one, steak for two, steak for three or steak for four (ranging in price from $39.95 to $167.80). We improvised and ordered steak for seven. All such steaks are porterhouse, which are comprised of both a tenderloin (which includes the filet mignon) and a top loin (or New York Strip) separated by a bone.

Before that, and in response to some whining from one of the more high maintenance members of our group (oh who am I kidding, we are all high maintenance, except for Tony who may be comatose) the waiter brought over a menu. There are some additional offerings, including a rib steak, lamb chops, fresh fish and a Luger Burger. There are also appetizers (including sliced tomatoes and onions, sizzling bacon, salads and shrimp cocktail) and vegetables (including a variety of potatoes, broccoli, creamed spinach and onion rings).

We started with the bacon, shrimp cocktail and and sliced tomatoes and onions. I didn't try the bacon (doctor's orders), but this was not your father's thinly sliced variety. As advertised, it was sizzling and thick. There were no complaints. Did I mention that my fraternity was of the Jewish persuasion? The tomato and onion slices were ripe, thick and and fresh. The shrimp and accompanying cocktail sauce were excellent.

The steak followed on two large plates that were placed on the table at an angle so that the meat would not swim in any grease. The steak was sliced so that we could choose the pieces that met our individual temperature preferences. I imagine that there are better steaks somewhere at some price, but this was an experience that I would not have traded. The creamed spinach (not too creamy) and the Luger's Special German Fried Potatoes (well done and crispy) were ideal accompaniments. The steak sauce is good enough to be bottled and sold in supermarkets.

I didn't try the dessert, but the apple strudel and "holy cow" hot fudge sundae looked like they should. I'm not sure if I would use the word cow to describe a dessert at this place, however. In fact, if I were a cow I'd steer (no pun intended) clear of Brooklyn altogether. All desserts can be served with homemade schlag (whipped cream). The brothers of Beta Sigma Beta will appreciate the significance and coincidence of that word.

All in all, Peter Luger's was a special place to celebrate a special night with a special group of guys. Eat up,

The Regular Guy

Charlie's Sandwich Shoppe: "Best Breakfast in America"

Charlie's Sandwich Shoppe
47 Columbus Avenue
Boston Massachusetts, 012116
(617) 536-7669

The "Best Breakfast in America" proclaims the menu of Charlie's Sandwich Shoppe and they just might be right. When visiting Boston last weekend with the family, the concierge of our hotel (Jury's on Stuart, Street -- excellent by the way, but requiring a different blog) recommended Charlie's for a good, wholesome breakfast. It might have been nice had he also mentioned that it was closed on Sunday's, but at least you now know. Another crucial piece of intelligence is that it is cash only.

This place is straight out of the fifties. (For my Northeast Philly friends, think Essen House but smaller and older). As you enter, you pass the register on your left and then a counter with perhaps twelve seats facing a working grill. Opposite the counter, there are maybe six or seven tables that are shared when the restaurant is busy. This is not a place for pretense. If you want water, you get up and pour it for yourself.

As for the food, it was just what the doctor (not a cardiologist, however) ordered. I had the self proclaimed "award winning" turkey hash, eggs and toast ($7.85). I'm not sure what award it received, but I smiled all the way through. The kids had the french toast ( $5.85) and my wife the blueberry griddle cakes and bacon ($7.25). Both were excellent.

The breakfast menu is completed with a full array of omelette options and expected variations of eggs, french toast and pan(griddle)cakes. Lunch offers virtually every sandwich option, including pulled pork, subs (this is Boston -- no hoagies here) soups, salads and and even entrees like meatloaf, fried chicken and sirloin steak.

Charlie's is the kind of spot I enjoy, whether it be for breakfast, lunch or dinner; a simple setting with good food. Restaurants like this will be the focus of the Regular Guide To Food and I'm thrilled to highlight Charlie's Sandwich Shoppe in our inaugural post. Eat up,

The Regular Guy